Standing majestically on a vertiginous rocky crag overlooking the lake, the spectacular Castle of Angera towers over the surrounding area and dominates the lake. Seen from afar the castle exudes a real fairy-tale aura, especially when glimpsed on a crisp winter morning from the western shore, with a blanket of mist totally obscuring the lake and town below and lapping at the castle-s immense honey-coloured walls. Soon after, the sun rises and burns the mist away, turning the castle a rich golden colour.

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Sometimes overlooked in favour of the three famous islands off Stresa, Angera Castle is yet another major attraction owned by the aristocratic Borromeo family and should be on everybody's holiday to-do list.

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The most scenic and enjoyable way to arrive at Angera from is by boat which takes just over one hour from Stresa or ten minutes from Arona; The boat runs back and forth regularly throughout the year to and from Arona but the service is more frequent in the summer.

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You can also get to Angera by car; the route, which initially passes through a swathe of unlovely commercial sprawl, takes thirty minutes from Arona.  Other than the defunct 1930’s seaplane base at Sant’Anna, the main point of interest on the route is a unique iron double-decker bridge  built after the previous one was destroyed during the second world war (Pont de Fer in the local dialect  > Ironbridge). The road you’re travelling runs above the railway. On your right you’ll see the Ticino River which ultimately runs into the Po and on your left the southern tip of the lake and in the distance a magnificent vista of the glaciers of Monte Rosa on the skyline.

 

Once you arrive at Angera, follow signs to the castle where there is a large car-park.

If arriving by boat at Angera, the walk to the castle is uphill and is around two kilometres. As you get closer, the castle appears to increase in size until it looms over you in all its medieval magnificence.

From the landing stage, walk along the beautiful, sun-drenched front with its picturesque pastel coloured buildings flanking the road. All along the front there are extensive grassy areas sloping down gradually to the lake and which are very popular with locals on fine sunny days. Follow the signs up through the old town to the castle, about two kilometres away. On your way you will see signs to an agriturismo (farm restaurant):  Osteria del Castello, directly below the castle.  You could arrange to have lunch here on your way back. 

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Once you’ve paid your entrance ticket, walk up to the castle entrance, one of the most panoramic spots with stunning views over the town and lake, especially on a breezy summers day when you can look down on a flotilla of boats in the bay in front of Angera.

 

At this point you can either explore the castle or pass through an attractively laid out tearoom with beautiful flagstones, to the fascinating mediaeval medicinal garden. In mid-summer, if the heat gets too hot to handle, try out the garden’s natural air conditioning around the cliff top. Look for the stone “air vents” and enjoy a stream of refreshing cool air rushing up from below

If you’re more familiar with sombre northern European castles, you’ll  be struck by how cheerful and luminous this one is. It is impossible not to be impressed by its size and beautiful state of preservation, and in fact, Angera castle never saw battle, instead serving as one of the Borromeo family’s private homes.

 

The only part of the whole building which is less than cheery is the doll and toy museum spread over much of the ground floor and which some people find a little eerie! For those interested in dolls and toys, however, the museum, one of Europe’s most important, houses a vast collection of antique wooden and porcelain dolls in addition to some early clockwork toys.

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Don’t forget to make your way to the top of the castle, passing through various other rooms, some furnished, some not, several with wall paintings from the 13th Century. Pause to admire the Halls of Justice with its outstanding frescoes. On the way, you’ll notice a fine collection of majolica tiles.

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You’ll have to climb a wooden staircase to reach the tower but it’s well worth the effort as the views are truly remarkable.  

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There are options for combined tickets covering several of the Borromeo properties.  

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Parking

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There is plenty of free parking in the castle car park or by the ferry landing stage and along the lakeside towards Ranco.

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Beaches

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Deservedly popular with locals who not surprisingly know all the best places, this is arguably the best waterside  area on the Eastern shore of lake Maggiore. As the beautiful little town of Angera sits on a promontory jutting out into the lake, whatever the time of day, you’ll nearly always find part of the lakeshore exposed to the sun, as well as plenty of shade. 

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North of the public boat landing stage, there is a long expanse of gravelly beach, whereas to the South there are huge, well-kept expanses of lawn running up to the water’s edge - great for lying on and watching the world go by, especially on hot summer weekends.

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You can also relax al fresco at any of the bars in a shady avenue of lime trees running parallel to the lake.

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Vineyards

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Few people are aware that there is an area overlooking Lago Maggiore where wine is still made, an area where vineyards still carpet the hillsides above the lake, just as they once did centuries ago.

 

Production almost died out completely during the early years of the twentieth century but is now well and truly back from the brink with over 50 producers on the eastern shores of the lake, manyin the Angera region. Most of these winemakers work on a very small scale, producing wine for their own consumption. However, there are also a couple of vineyards which produce and sell their wines, the most important of which is Cascina Piano just outside Angera. You are advised to enquire beforehand as they are frequently closed. The fields lie on either side of San Quirico hill behind the castle and offer some lovely walks amongst the vines.

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These wines received a boost from recognition of IGT status, a wine classification level which is slightly less stringent than the well-known DOC quality level for wines with certain regional characteristics.

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The main grape varieties grown are Nebbiolo, Croatina, Merlot, Uva Rara, Barbera and Shiraz (red) and Chardonnay, Trebbiano, Bussanello, Traminer and Sauvignon (white).

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For something stronger, though less picturesque, head for Angera’s industrial estate. There you will find the renowned Rossi d’Angera distillery, dating back to 1847, famed chiefly for its Grappa, but offering a fine range of products including an excellent  local gin.