Lago Maggiore's most popular weekend getaway destination for city dwelling Italians, and also its nightlife, dining-out and shopping capital, Arona offers marvellous views, a ruined cliff top castle, a colossal 17th century statue which inspired the Statue of Liberty, wine bars and pubs galore and a wonderful concentration of eateries in the town's stunningly picturesque medieval lakeside square. 

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Arona sits at the foot of Lago Maggiore, and like other similar towns such as Como and Lecco, located near the southernmost point of Italian lakes, is a magnet for Sunday day-trippers from the many humdrum industrial cities further south.

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This is why, in marked contrast to Stresa and other towns which go into hibernation during the winter months, Arona buzzes with life all year round.

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Many arrive by train as Arona station is very close to the lakeside promenade, or by boat from the other side of the lake.

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Young people tend to congregate in the bars lining the lake-front whilst couples flock to the romantic restaurants in the delightful lake-side Piazza dei Popoli. This medieval square lies in the shadow of the imposing Rocca which rises sheer from the lake side road.

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The main pedestrian street, which is also a popular shopping destination, where well-dressed Italians parade up and down and window-shop on weekends, is Via Cavour. It leads directly to Piazza del Popolo.

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Whilst off the radar for many foreign visitors, Arona offers great opportunities for mingling with Italians. Be sure to look smart though! 

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As the dozen or so restaurants clustered in and around Piazza del Popolo cater predominately to Italians, you’ll find the quality of the food excellent and, rather than tourist fare, you’ll be enjoying genuine Italian cuisine.

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Establishments run the gamut from classy Strobino, a bakery which makes a great place for breakfast or a classic Italian pre-dinner aperitivo, to expensive Taverna del Pittore, patronised by former prime minister, Berlusconi, during his heyday (he owns a villa a few kilometres outside town).

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The town’s good fortune as a mecca for day trippers and holiday makers goes back to 1868 when the Milan - Arona railway line was completed. The late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries saw a building boom as wealthy Milanese built themselves fine villas in Arona and neighbouring Meina and Dagnente.

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But Arona’s history goes back much further. Ruined cliff top castle Arona is one of the two choke-points controlling access between Lago Maggiore and the Po Valley to the south, the other being Angera on the opposite side of the lake. This was at a time when the preferred means of transport was by boat; in fact, the Venerenda Fabbrica del Duomo, one of the world’s oldest continually running businesses, chose to source marble for building the Duomo cathedral in Milan from Candoglia because almost the entire route was by water.

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The castle, known as La Rocca, was built high above Arona on a rocky spur by the Borromeo family. Though largely destroyed by Napoleon in 1800, save for several turrets and sections of crumbling wall, it is still in the family’s possession, like so much other valuable real estate in the Lago Maggiore area, including Angera castle on the other side of the lake. 

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Aside from the romantic cliff-top ruins framing the parkland, you can find a duck pond with turtles, several other species of animals and a charming bar (La Corte della Rocchetta), converted from an old farm building which also sells food, particularly salami from Central Italy. It makes a great place for an early evening aperitif before dinner. In the summer months the bar sometimes organises small open air concerts.

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Follow signs to Rocca di Arona, a couple of minutes by car or ten minutes on foot from the centre of Arona. La Rocca has some of the finest views on the lake. Directly opposite, on the far shore, looms Angera with its magnificent castle, whilst, to the south, the vista stretches towards Milan and the endless plains.  

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Down below, at the foot of the cliff, you can see Arona’s beautiful mediaeval core and its lakeside square flanked by many scenic bars and restaurants. In summer months, the entire square is awash with people. Looking north, the view takes in both shores of Lago Maggiore all the way to the Swiss and Italian Alps in the distance.

 

World's tallest statue

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Whilst admiring the view, to the north, you might notice what appears to be a benign green giant towering over the trees. This is Italy's, and once the world's tallest statue, long since overtaken by competitors in the Far East. However what the statue now lacks in relative stature, it more than makes up for in terms of history and status. In fact, San Carlo is steeped in history.

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This bronze statue of Saint Carlo Borromeo (1538-1584), a former Pope, who was born at the Rocca, was apparently inspiration for the Statue of Liberty. It was completed in 1698 after 80 years work. The realisation that this colossus was built way back in 1698 and has been standing for over 500 years leaves one in awe; even experts are baffled by the fact that the alloy used has not deteriorated.  

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If you don’t suffer claustrophobia you can climb up inside the bronze statue and peer through his eyes or through a shoulder-hatch to enjoy the view. There is enough space for six people to stoop inside his head at the same time. But bear in mind that the ladder shaft is very narrow and the climb is vertical.

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San Carlo can be reached by car in 5 minutes from Arona or, if you’re feeling fit you can walk there in around 30 minute but it is quite a steep climb. An alternative is the tourist toy train that leaves from the lakeside during the summer months. 

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On the way up you will notice a series of chapels lining the road, some of them ruined and overgrown. The project to create a Holy Mountain complete with chapels to mark the Stations of the Cross never came to fruition. Aside from the statue, the minuscule hamlet of San Carlo includes a beautiful old college, a church, a hotel and two restaurants.

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Beaches

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After years of neglect, local authorities have been making great efforts to promote the local beaches, selling rights to manage and develop the local Lidos. Like other towns, Arona has experienced something of a water-front renaissance in recent years.

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Arona boasts its own Lido, a large grassy area set amongst trees, usually open during the summer months. Next to it is a new beach, Spiaggia del Sorriso with a fenced off swim area and lifeguard.  

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Don’t be tempted to take a dip outside the safe swim area Lido area - where the Vevera stream flows into Lago Maggiore. Apart from the fact that there have been occasional drownings, the water quality in the stream which flows into Lago Maggiore is still poor (though improving).

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Le Rocchette

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On the northern side of Arona, where the cliff plunges down dramatically to the road, is a small wedge of a beach: free-access Le Rochette. Hemmed in between the main lake-side road and the lake, most people are completely oblivious to its existence, but this beach is just 5 minutes walk from Arona’s medieval lakeside square: Piazza del Popolo.

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During the summer there is a bar offering the usual amenities: beach umbrellas, sunbeds, showers and toilets.

 

Parking

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There is plenty of free parking behind the Lido and next to the station

 

Public transport

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There is a regular train, bus and boat service to and from Arona.

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