The largest of the three islands, Isola Madre with its English style, informal, botanical gardens, amongst the oldest in Italy, makes a nice counterpoise to the more exuberant, geometrical Isola Bella gardens. Don't let the fact that it may take a little bit longer to reach, deter you. This bewitching island, owned by the Borromeo family, is a must-see destination, arguably the most beautiful of all Stresa and Lago Maggiore sites.

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To do justice to this magical island, give yourself plenty of time to savour its bucolic charms.

You’ll want to linger.

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As soon as the boat docks at the jetty, you'll realise you are entering a serene, enchanted place, a world away from the hustle and bustle of the mainland.

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All of a sudden, you'll find yourself transported to a warm, Mediterranean coastline with lemon trees, eucalyptus, huge agave cactuses and colourful exotic flowers and grasses casually tumbling down the rock face.

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Gardeners will wonder whether all this perfection is by accident or design. The botanical gardens occupy almost the entire island, though there is free access to a wonderful Mediterranean walkway on the south side where the boat docks and which leads to a bar/restaurant and a stony beach.

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Tickets are bought from a lovely plant-draped retro ticket booth.

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Even though Isola Madre is amongst the area’s top attractions, the crowds are rarely overpowering in the same way as they can be in the middle of August on Isola Pescatori and Isola Bella. Perhaps this magical, surreal island is far enough from Stresa to deter some day-trippers. Often when we visit we find ourselves almost alone amongst the glorious plant life, accompanied only by the island’s exotic birdlife.

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If possible, visit towards the end of the day before the last boat returns to Stresa. Apart from the fact of having the island almost entirely to yourself, you’ll notice the sun bathes everything in a wonderful golden glow.

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Around the world in half an hour

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Follow the path that coils round the island through the beautifully laid out gardens and admire the wonderful viewpoints through the trees.

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You'll soon find that you leave the Mediterranean microclimate on the south side and enter the more familiar, temperate zone on the cooler, lusher northern side. Many plants are identified together with their place of origin.

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Look out for the incredibly picturesque boating house with its striped wooden poles decorated in the Borromeo family colours. There are plenty of well-tended lawns and a wonderful forest of bamboo trees as well as a famous, very rare, two hundred year old Kashmir cypress.

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As you walk towards the centre of the island, you'll notice exotic birds calmly observing you: white peacocks and various types of pheasant.

 

Glaciers

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Amazingly, even in the height of summer, through the trees, you may glimpse, glacier-studded mountains hovering, cloud-like, in the distance, providing a lovely contrast with the island's Mediterranean microclimate.

The Palazzo

The sober sixteenth century renaissance Palazzo on the highest point of the island is also well worth visiting. Again it contrasts with the more showy Palazzo on Isola Bella. Wander round and look out for the collection of puppets and puppet theatres dating back to the XVII and XIX centuries, mannequins dressed in period costumes, toys, ceramics and various other items of interest.

 

Tea room

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A wonderful tea room is sensitively located in an outbuilding and makes a great place to unwind whilst admiring the lovely pond with its lily pads and the nearby banana grove. Every so often the scent of some tropical flower will waft across the courtyard.

There is one restaurant, La Piratera, on the island, outside the garden. To get there take the sunny, south facing walkway.

 

Beach

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Just after the restaurant, there is a stony beach which is very popular with boaters who anchor just offshore and wade to the island. Continue on past the end of the beach and you’ll come to an old stone jetty. This secluded spot makes an idyllic place for a picnic. If there is nobody else about you could almost believe you were stranded on a deserted island.

Bear in mind that it works out cheaper to buy combination tickets for entry to the Borromeo properties: Isola Madre, Isola Bella gardens and the Castle of Angera.