orridi di uriezzo

Take a glance at a map of the local area and you can sense the fear that certain natural features such as ravines and gorges must once have exercised over the impressionable local populace. References to witches, devils, giant’s cauldrons and other mythical figures abound whilst one of the most commonly used Italian words for gorge is aptly “orrido”. This is a land steeped in magic, mystery  and mythology, where one’s imagination can run wild. Even nowadays, on a gloomy winter’s day descending into the eerie Orridi di Uriezzo network of ravines can be a chilling experience. 

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The remarkable gorges, collectively known as the Orridi di Uriezzo, can be reached from three different directions but the most impressive route is via the village of Premia, on the way to Formazza.

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Follow the signs and turn right just after leaving the village; the road will take you downhill towards what appears to be the valley bottom. In fact, the road descends much further, taking you down even lower.

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On the way, you’ll notice a magnificent climbing wall, Balmafredda. Leave your car where the road comes to an end, next to a tiny chapel, and follow the signs to the various ravines (orridi).

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The most spectacular is the Orrido Sud (southern gorge), around 10 minutes walk from the car. You’ll find yourself walking along the dry bed of the gorge, 200 metres long and thirty metres deep, carved out during the last ice age by torrents cutting through the rocks beneath the vast Toce glacier.

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As the glacier retreated, so too did the streams with the result that the gorges are now essentially dry - though muddy after rain. If you come on a day when the sky is overcast or in the late afternoon, the narrow gorge can be so dark, you’ll feel as if you’re walking through a cave. A torch might be helpful.

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There is also a ten meter high metal staircase enabling you to drop down a level. Look out for the particular flora, comprising ferns and moss which only grows in dark, damp environments where the sun’s rays never penetrate. Continuing on from the southern gorge, after ten minutes you’ll arrive at the Giant’s Cauldron (Marmitte dei Giganti). The river is full of gushing water all year round; stand on the bridge and look for the holes which have been bored in the surrounding rocks by swirling currents – hence the name.

As the rocks overlooking the river are a suntrap, this area makes a popular picnic spot but is not safe for swimming.

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On the way back to the car, you can stop off to investigate the Balmasud gorge, visible from a footbridge high over the ravine.

Finally, the north east gorge is hidden behind a picturesque stone Hansel and Gretel house very close to the car-park.

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Much easier to negotiate, shorter and less sinister, this gorge is preferable if you have young children in tow.

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At this point, the most enjoyable way to round off a perfect day might be to visit the wonderful Premia hot springs, just a few minutes away on the road to Formazza.