santa caterina del sasso
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Santa Caterina del Sasso Monastery, which clings precariously, limpet-like, to a narrow ledge, is reminiscent of similar churches and monasteries in the Holy Land which were also built in implausible, perpendicular, vertigo-inducing locations.
Built between the 13th and 14th centuries, the monastery is made up of three buildings in a hodgepodge of styles and is all the better for it.
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The heart of the structure is the church at the farther end with its fine portico coming about as the result of the merger of three chapels, one of which contains the mummified remains of Albert, the founder. You can deduce where these three chapels used to stand from the positions of the altars. Also of great interest is the late mediaeval danse macabre fresco depicting a dance between men and skeletons.
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The site was the setting for two miraculous events, the first one occurring in the twelfth century, when a rich local merchant, caught in a terrible storm on the lake, managed to scramble ashore and chose to show his gratitude by building and living in a hermitage dedicated to St Catherine of Sinai.
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This was the inspiration for the monastery which was built later. The second miracle occurred several centuries later in 1700 when a series of huge boulders came rolling down off the cliff above but came to an abrupt halt when they were on the point of destroying the monastery.
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The monastery and lift are open in the summer months between 9.00 and 18.00 whilst in the winter only on weekends and public holidays from 9.00 to 12.00 and 14.00 to 17.00. There is no entrance ticket, but donations are appreciated.
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There are two ways to reach this iconic monastery, one of northern Italy’s most photographed structures, but your decision will most likely be dictated by your departure point. Certainly the most romantic is by the small public boat service from Stresa (April to October) which docks just below this Romanesque monastery. You then have a short but fairly steep walk up a flight of steps. If you’re already on the eastern side of Lago Maggiore, there are no boat services and so the only option is by car.
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Descending from the landscaped cliff-top car park is an interesting experience. Until recently you had to zigzag down a very steep 286 step path whereas there is now a modern lift, opened in 2010, which catapults you down fifty one metres deep inside the rock-face, in a few seconds. The local authorities are understandably very proud of their achievement, promoting this costly construction as an attraction in itself.
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The best time to visit is late afternoon when the beautiful honey-coloured stones are warmed by the sun just before it slips down over the western shore. This is the best time to whip out your camera and start shooting the extraordinarily photogenic scene.
If you’re there in the morning and feeling peckish, you can stop for something to eat at the Cascine del Quiquio on the cliff top or otherwise walk or drive a couple of kilometres to the nearest village, Reno.
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Starting in the vicinity, you’ll find a classic weekend post-prandial destination for locals wishing to walk off a hearty Sunday lunch. In summer, simply follow the lakeside path southwards passing alongside a large building owned by the church. In winter, when the gates are closed, the walk starts from the road just below the car-park. Follow the signs, either along the lengthier blue or the shorter red circuit, both of which will take you to the cliff-top area. Though you’ll be walking along the cliff-tops, in summer the views over the lake are largely obscured by trees.
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Unfortunately there are no official panoramic viewpoint areas but try to resist the temptation to climb over the wooden fence skirting the path to take a closer look, especially if you have children in tow. The land suddenly gives way and plunges down vertically and terrifyingly 100 metres into the lake below. The cliff-face is popular with climbers.
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The landscape on the eastern, Lombardy, shore of Lago Maggiore is verdant but the lake is only rarely visible as you drive along the main road connecting Sesto Calende, where the Lake flows into the Ticino river, with Laveno further north. This is perhaps why foreign visitors skip the eastern shore in favour of the more dramatic western side.
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At any rate, though hidden away, there are several attractions to be searched out in addition to Santa Caterina del Sasso Monastery, the most important of which are the dreamy fairy-tale castle of Angera, and the hilltop UNESCO world heritage site of Varese Sacro Monte.